Day 3 We Survived the Palace Tours

We began our day with an early breakfast which included a pleasant surprise- Russian bubbly for mimosas- or just straight alongside a double cappacino.

Our guide and driver arrived and off we went in our green VW van to the most famous and undoubtedly most popular visitor attractions. The palace at Peterhof- the summer palace of Peter the Great- is overwhelming- in terms of decoration and in terms of the numbers of people all determined to be in the space immediately in front of you. We were lucky, though, to have a private and experienced guide, as we were able to avoid lining up to buy tickets (Diana said it can be hours) and to enter ahead of many large groups. Still, it was one of the most crowded entrances we have experienced. (Nothing tops getting in to the Presidential Palace in Bangkok!)

Once inside, we viewed room after room of grandeur in the finest Rococo style. Every surface was decorated, usually with glittering gilt enhanced by the tremendous chandeliers, sconces, and mirrors.

The inspiration for the palace was Versailles and it was a favourite spot for Peter the Great's granddaughter Empress Elizabeth, who added wings to the building and also expanded the surrounding park and fountains, especially The Grand Cascade.

Peterhof was captured by German troops in 1941 and occupied it until 1944. Much of the treasures (those that had not been removed and/or buried for safety) were destroyed. The palace and its grounds have undergone extensive repair and restoration; the Lower Park originally reopened to the public in 1945.

After a refreshing walk through the grounds, we headed to Palace Part Two- the smaller but equally or even more popular Pushkin or Catherine Palace, a summer residence for the czars.. Its great attraction is the Amber Room and tens of thousands of Chinese tourists come each year to view that room in particular. The line up for individuals (those without a private guide) and for many of group tours can exceed four hours! We waited perhaps four minutes and again were dazzled by the gilt on gilt, amplified by lights and glass and mirrors. The descendants of Peter the Great knew how to entertain and how to impress their guests. After the siege of Leningrad the retreating German forces intentionally destroyed the palace. Most of it has been restored, although the private rooms are still closed.

We drove back through leafy suburbs and by pleasant boulevards and parks. The buildings are well maintained and the vehicles seem very new (not a Lada in sight!).

The touring exhuasted us and we were very grateful for our hotel's lovely spa, which included a large swimming pool, numerous hot tubs, saunas, and steam baths.